Welt-sewing machine



WELT SEWING MACHINE Filed June 28, 1927 4 Sheets-Sheet l Fig John Roger@Vn/ev Bmw, www @GMW/r A Ays,

July 22, 1930- Y .1. R. OLIVER 1,770,992

WELT SEWING MACHINE Filed June 28, 1927 4 sheets-sneer 2 Fig@ 'JohnRogerOlver by @Owl/, KMUM 8L @wf-hbz" Ays.

July 22, 1930. J R, OLIVER 1,770,992

WELT SEWING MACHINE Filed June 28, 1927 FigL 4 Sheets-Sheet ."5

log /08 lnvenor.

4John RogerOlver by R050, www 9 @Ww/l Ays.

July 22, 1930. J, R 0| |VER 1,770,992

WELT SEWING MACHINE Filed June 28, 1927 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Fig@ lnven'or.

John Roger @Hvar by /Rvgwkvmw L MWI L ATTyS.

Cil

Patented July 22, 19320 n UNITED'STATES] .PATENT OFFICE .ionivnoennomvnncr' MEDFIELD, MAssAOnUsE-TTS, Assinvon To nance SHOE MA- entrainerCOMPANY, or BOSTON, MAssnonUsnTTs, n CORPORATION OF ,MAINE WELT-SEWINGMACHINE Application filed June 2,8,

This intention relates to` welt sewing ma.- chines, and more especially7to sewing machines known Y as `,v-elt-and-turn machines. An exampleefsuch machine isthe' Reece welter in which the shoe insole is stitched tothe lip of the upper and to the we-lt strip, exemplified by Patents1,288,366 ofDecembr 17, 1918 and 1,361,952 of December 14, 1920. Anappropriate stopping and starting mechanism for such machines is shownin my Pat-l ent 1,532,634 of April 7, 1925. My prior application SerialNo. 21,544 filed April 8,1925 discloses improved mechanism for thefeeding, guiding andapplying of the welt strip, certain` features ofwhich are employed with the present invention. I have heretofore devisedcertain mechanisms for severing theV welt strip after the stitching of aseam and the stoppage ofthe Vmachine and have applied for patentsthereonr applications Serial Nos.` G ,014 filed October 26, 1925v and68,191 filed November 10,1925. These prior patents and applicationsmaybe referred to forvarious details not herein fully shown-or described.

The novel features of the present invention however are applicable toother makesV and types of welt sewing machines useful in stitching weltsor strips to various materials..

The general object ofthe present invention is to afford a simple,convenient and effective mechanism for the handling` of the welt in suchsewing machines. A particular Vobject is to improve the mode of trimmingoffor'sevcring the welt strip after the termination of a seam, thisbeing done, under the principles of prior application 68,191, in amanner to leave a oro"ectin`f length of welt forthecom- Y .l C D imencement v,of a new seam. The severing device is preferably lcontrolledby a` lever thrownr manually or by a blow from the shoe orworlr atthe-will ofthe workman, afterthe machine hasbeen stopped, andv onefeature of the ypresent 'invention is the provision -of a safetydeviceipreventing the premature actuationofthe severing mechanism;Another 1 feature of the present invent-ion is the einployment of aweltlholdingfmeans or pawl,

normally inoperative, but brought into oper ation at a proper'time tohold'the severed welt end inits. advanced position and prevent e@ 1927.Serial No. 202,()39f4 cidental movement thereof. @ther and furthervadvantageous features Of the present'in! the novel welt handlingmechanism, and the novel vfeatures of combination, arrangement,

operation, structure and detail herein illustrated or described. j

In the accompanying drawings Fig. 1 is a right elevation of a suilicientpart of a welt sewing'machine to illustrate the principles ofthe presentinvention, thisview corresponding generally with Fig. 1 of said ap'-plication 68,191.

Fig. 2 is a left elevation corresponding generall'y with Fig. 2 of saidapplication 68,191.

Fig. 3 ,is a right elevation of r1L-detached Y part, namely the weltsevering blade and its carrying segment. l Fig. 4 is a plan view ofcertain parts of the mechanism looking downward'inthe slanting directionindicated by the arrow 4 in 2, other parts of the. mechanism beingomitted for clearness of illustration.

Fig/5 isa fore and aft section view taken on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4,looking from the left.

`. `Fig. 6 is a front viewl of certain parts of the mechanism yshown inFigs. 1-5,`looki'ng rearwardly in the slanting direction indicated bythearrow 6 in Fig. 2. n

Fig. 7 is a front elevation of certain parts.. Fig. 8 is aleft elevationof certain details. Fig. .9 isa plan view taken partly in section on thelinei 9 9 of Fig.. 8` v t Referring indetail tothe drawings the invertedshoe, which is not shown, will be A,understoodA as being held in placeto the front ofv and below'the welt guide, and with Vthehwelt strip'Y W,theshoe upper, and the sole lip advancing leftward inthe path of theVcurved barbed needle 'C'which may be slidable in the usual oscillatingguide c. The welt strip, before meeting. the shoe, is guided by the weltguid along a path indicated at w,

The drawings show an upright fore-andaft frame wall 11 which may be theleft hand frame wall of the machine, and spaced to the right of this isseen another frame Wall or fixed bracket 12. The main or operating shaft13 may have its bearings in the frame walls, and this shaft may be acrank shaft which operates the needle, looper and other stitchinginstruments by means of lm lts, levers. etc., on the principles of saidprior patents. 'llieseparts are not herein shown. Part of the mechanismhereof is mounted at the left or outer side of the frame wall 11, whilevarious other parts are mounted at the inner or right side of the wall,or between the two frame walls. For the purpose of mounting` certainparts the left frame wall is shown as having formed or attached to itsinner or right side a fixed irregular bracket or casting' 1T having;`various extensions as in dicatcd by the reference numb r 17 appliedthereto. The needle C may oscillate about an axle 18 in the usualmanner.` yThe work may be held against the welt guide and the usual typeof work rest. and maybe advanced between stitches by the usual feedmechanism. while the welt lV is laid against the shoe yand. stitched inplace as more fully eX- plained in the prior patents and applications.rEhe parts thus far described may be substantially preexisting parts ofthe welt stitching` machine, although modified to accommodate thepresent invention.

The present invention operates on the following plan basically similarto said application 68,191. A welt severing` blade is arranged to bethrown quickly forward and retracted when the we tis to be out, thisblade operating` with a shearing` action. in conjunction with a part ormember through which the welt advances. rllhese parts are manipulated soas to sever the welt, not adjacent to the stitching point. or the planeof the need le, but at a point substantially advanced therebeyond, orwell to the left of the stitching point. so that when severed there willremain a projectingr welt. for example 1H in length. `facilitating thestartingjof the sewing of the welt to the next piece of work or shoe.Tie particular construction shown is one in which the sever ig knife asit swings forward ly toward the welt i at the sa me time shifted towardthe left7 thus receiving' a diagonal motion and bringing' it to thedesired advanced severing position. In conhecticI with this action thewelt guiding; member. which may be a part of the welt lcuide, or anypart .looping or surrounding the welt, will preferably be moved leftwardalong the direction offeed, thus giving support to the welt during thesevering action and cooperating with the blade to shear the strip. Inother words the blade and the loop member Ymove leftward in unison.while the blade moves relatively forward tocut the welt. The operatormay therefore, after the completion of a seam and the stoppage of themachine, pull the shoe and welt bodily leftward to the extent of two orthree inches if that amount of loose welt is desired to be left at theend of the seam and then bring about the sei ering action, for exampleat one inch to the left of the sewing plane, thus leaving the desiredfree welt end on the completed work', and as well a projecting free endin the machine 'for starting the next shoe. lf the severing devicesshould be put into action without manually pullingthe shoe and welt tothe left, the loop member, surrounding the welt, will bear forwardly andcompel the shoe and Welt to advance sulliciently to insure that thesevering will be at an unattached part of the welt and that the bladewill not injure the work already completed.

The welt guide 2O is a member swingable forward toward the work andrearward from the work and with a recess or surface along which the weltis guided to the work. The guide is an irregularly shaped castingsupported on a pair of swinging` arms 22 which turn on an axle 23extending between a portion of vthe casting 17 and the wall 12.

As in application 68,191 the welt passes throughr the main welt guideand thence through a separate guiding part or loop 2d located directlyto the left of the welt guide and capable of leftward shifting movementat the time of lcring, as already explained. rl`he shiftablo guide partor loop member is herein shown as having a rigid extension piece 25spaced to the left and forming a recess in which the cutter can move.lThis may have :i slotted adjustment, so that a curved extension 25n maybe adjusted as a trib in the welt passage 26 in the loop member 24; forwelts of Adiiferent width.

The shiftable welt loop member 24 i1. shown mounted at the lower end ofa supportingr shank 27 having a circular head 28 by which' it isswingingly mounted in a member to be later described. This permits theseparate guide section 24 to partake of the swingingT movements of themain guide 2O during the stitching operations, the shifting guidesection normally lying against the main guide. and being held inalineinent thereto at all limes, for example by a longitudinal alining;pin 29 forming a rightward extension of the shifting guide section andpassing through an aperture in the main guide, and projecting,T beyondthe latter at the right. where it is notched as seen in Figs. 1 and 7for Acertain purposes.

rlhe severing knife 30 consists of a flat blade movable in the groovebetween the shifting guide part 2-1 and its spaced extension The knifeis sh'ownseparately in 3 and is attached to a curved shank 31 carrying atoothed 'rack 32 engaged by a lll() lill) pinion 33 which is elongatedtopermit fright The curved shank 31 of the cutter and the :similar-shank27 of the guide section 24 are accommodated in the arc shaped recess ofa guide' member or block 35 which not only guides thetwo shanksand keeps`them iin proper registered position, but is employed give the bodilyleftward and` return shitting movements oi thecutter and the guide i,loop section 24. The shift-ingguide 35'is mounted on or-ormed with aguiding bar '36 extendingto the right, anda similar bar 37 extending tothe left andpassing throughthe frame wall 11, these two bars beingguided respec'ively in a portion of the casting` 17 and in the framewall. Thelett and right movements of the guide block and connected parts.may be veffected through the carrying bar 37; For this purpose the baris shown provided with lateral pins l38 engaging in the lower slottedend of a lever 39 at the outer or le'lt side et the wall l1, thislever-being fulcruined atan upper point 40 and'being swung right andleft by a link .41 extending from an upwardly and downwardly slidingrbarto"be further described. When the bar Ll5 Vdescends and rises this vrillthrow the guide block 35 to the left for Vthe cutting movement andyreturn to the right or normal position. y

The connections for operating thecutter blade may now be described. Thepinion 33 which' operates the curved rack 32V of the cuttershank ismounted Von a shaft 42 which `eitends leftward through the iframe wallll and at its exterior end'carries a pinion L13 ments.

ing a lower hnk plvoted to the extension i8 and an upper link 51centrally pivoted to the lowerlink by;` aV pin 52, the upper link nvhaving an upper pin 53 engaging in a slot 5,4;

*having a notch V55 at its lower end inwh-ich the pin rests during thevrearward or operative movement of the toggle." A spring 56normallypholds the toggles in their lowered position shown, with the pin53 engaging the notch 55.. The toggle is shown operated "byV a rod 58extending forwardly from the-pin Y 52, andV this rod having'a rear headV59 by` Vloose play in the recess 77 Vof a sleevem'em'- which the partscanbereset: i The rod carries a flange 60 in front oft-he toggles toconfine the operating spring,and it also has a tapered front end 61 witha latch receiving notch 62 'to the rear y01"' the'taper. lf he preferredoper.- ation of the cutter 1blade is by the stored tension of aspring G3which is shown surrounding theV rod53 and pressing rearwardly on the'flange 60 andthe toggles. Thefront end of the rod maybe guided byalixed bearing 65 'which may be supplemented by a sleeve 66 asinapplication 68,191. The operation 'oft thespring, when released, is tothrow the toggles from the normalV position shown in F ig. 24 throughtheir straightened position and beyond tora rearward position, `thusthrowing the bar 45 downwardly and upvwardly. The `subsequent resettingmay be effected after the restarting of t-he machine,

lnamely by'an oscillating lever 67 actuated by a. link 68 from themainshaft 13 as in application 68,191, the resetting Vlever .forcing thetoggle rodv i'orwardly to normal pontion where it becomes latchediiNormally, and during stitching operations, the toggle mechanism islat-ched in its for-V ward vposition as shown, .namely by alatch orfinger 70 engaging in the notch 62 near the forward end of the rod 58.The latch is in the form of a swinging finger mounted on a fore-and-aftshank7l located somewhat to the lett of the toggle rod. When the latchis thrown 'down' this releases the rod and brings about the lel'twardandrightward shifting `movementsfof the guide blockI 35' carrying the guideloop 24 and the 'knife 30, aswell as the cutting and return movements ofthe knife itself. The mounting of the latch may beas follows Itsshank-or carrying shaft V71 is'shown rotating in a front fixed bearing72 and a rear'bearing 73, see Figs. 2,4 and 5. To the-rear' of thebearing 72 the shank 71 has al collar 7 t clamped upon it, anda spring75 which surrounds the bearing andthe Vcollar is so lconnected to themasftolrotate the" shank and Vlift the latch into latehing posi-V tion.Also,'it` is under compression'and holds lar'74 is formed with atooth 76 enoa'dinnf with b D D ber 78 in which the shank V71 turns, *withinbearingv 73.y The sleeve 78 has a spoke-like 'extension -79.constitutingan inclined lever extending to the lett and downwardly ina convenient.position v to be contacted or knocked up by the work', orwithout-letting go of the work, and lifted so as to throw down the latchand bring aboutthe Vsevering fopen-.1 ation., A spring'SO is shownconnected to the bearing73 and the sleeve 7S' and tendingto-throwjdownwardly the severing control lever 79.` The sleeve 78 isformedfintoilaV rearwardly. extending shank "81` which' has clamped toita collar 82 `trom which e2;- tends 'an' upstanding linger 83 taking partin the partsin proper endwise relation. The colthe welt pawl applyingaction to be described. The play between the lever 79 and the latch,namely in the looseness between tooth 76 and notch 77, permits enoughslack so that the welt holding pawl will not be affected or moved whenthe latch snaps back into place.

The welt guide 20 is continuously pressed forward toward the work,partly through resilient connections as illustrated in application21,544, but is herein locked forward at certain parts of each stitchcycle by a wedging means. The rod 84 on F ig. 1 is representative of theconnections pressing forwardly on the welt guide, and corresponds withthe rod 78 in said application, being pivotally connected to a rearextension ofthe welt guide. Extending downwardly and forwardly from thesame pivot is shown a locking finger 85 normally engaging in the notchof the alining pin 29 already referred to, as indicated in Figs. 1 and7. The tail 85"1 of the finger 85 stands above the foot of a lixed stopbracket 86, the arrangement being such that when the shoe is in themachine, and the welt guide thereby held in its rearward position asshown, the lock finger 85 engages and locks the alining pin 29, whereas,after the stitching, and the removal of the work, if the guide isallowed to swing clear forward the tail 85 will strike the stop 86 andcause relative swinging of the lock iinger 85 and the release of thealining rod. This arrangement prevents premature operation of thesevering mechanism for the reason that the alining pin 29 is a part ofthe shifting guide loop member 24, which latter is thus prevented frombeing shifted leftward, this in turn holding the entire train of partsof the severing mechanism, even to the extent that the link l1 holds therack bar l5 against being moved downwardly by the toggle devices. ITheoperator therefore is unable to eect the severing operation until afterthe completion of the stitching and the removal of the work.

In connection with these safety devices there is shown a guard hook 88pivoted at the lower rear part of the welt guide, this extendingrearwardly and being there pivoted toV an inclined slide 87 sliding inthe casting 17, with a stop pin 87L arranged to strike the casting andso determine the mest forward position of the welt and guide. T he guardhook 88 is adapted to engageupon a guard 89 having a part projectingupwardly in front of the hook. These cooperating parts normally preventthe full forward movement of the welt` guide in a positive manner. Theguard 89 is mounted on a shank 90 fulcrumed at 91in the block 17 and itcarries an operating pin 92 mounted on an extension and engaged by theslotted end of a lever arm 93 fulcrumed at 94 to the frame wall andhaving a rearward extension 95 normally pulled down by a sp ing 90 whichthereby holds the guard in its open ative position. After the completionof a seam, and the letting up of the pedal to stop the machine, theseparts may be shifted to release the welt guide. rIfhus a sliding pin 97is shown which may be arranged to rise upon the stoppage of the machine,for example by di rect connection with the pedal, and being so locatedas to throw upwardly the lever arm 95 and thereby pull down the guard89, releasing the welt guide to swing full forward, this in turn eectingthe throw of the lock 1in ger 85 and the release of the severingmechanism as already described.

An advantageous feature of operation of these described. parts is thatthe welt guide must necessarily move completely forwardly, with asnapping action, when released by the guard, before the actual severingoperation takes place. lt will be understood that the needle ei'cillatcsforwardly and rear 'ardly in the recess or groove in the shiftable weltguide loop 2s, 25, and that this loop member is in alinement with themain welt guide, but artakes of a sharp leftward movement at the imc ofsevering. lilith the welt guide and the loop member in retractedposition the lei't ward movement will be likely to strike the point ofthe retracted needle and break it. 'Ehe necessary quick forward shift ofthe welt guiding parts however before the severing movements insuresthese parts clearing the needle.

'rre hereof consists of a welt 'ustrated as a pawl 100 -1 night intoaction upon the o2-event reverse movement after severe parts which havemoved leftward se einig move immediately back to their n)rmal positionand the welt back instead of lef` 1g the extending welt crd as desired.lVith this invention connections are arranged whereby the initiation ofthe sev"-ring action causes the pawl 100 to be pres-:sed upon the weltstrip and thus hold it advanced. There are herein shown connections forthis pui which are accommodated without ceniiiet in this very congestedmachine. rlhe welt} vl 100 is shown mounted movably on the w g1 20 in aposition to overlie the welt strip passing therethrough, an at its uppersido the pawl is formed with a constant lug 101. For depressing tl` lugto apply the pawl to the welt, as be.. seen in Fig. 6, there is shownlever arm 102 mounted on a hub 103 loose on the axle 23. The depresserarm 102 is thrown downwardly by turning the hub by means of an upwardlyextending arm 104 which is thrown rearwardly for the purpose. i leverarm 105 arranged to press rearwardly by Contact against the arm 10a, thearm 105 is mounted on a hub which also carries an arm 10E" ding upwardlyand to the rear where his tends to push CTI it is formed with a head Saccommodated in a recess in the frame plate or bracket 12.` A push baror link 109 is shown mounted'loosely in the two frame walls andcontacting at its right and left ends resp otively, the head 108 and theupstanding linger S8 rigidly connected with the severingV control lever79 as already described. By this arrangement when the control lever 79is knocked upwardly to cause the severing action the linger 83 is thrownto the right and thus operates the rod 109 and the connected train ofmechanism to press the pawl 100 down upon the welt fw and prevent itsaccidental retraction.

lt may be advisab e to adjust the'extreme richt movement or returnposition of the welt guide loop member 2a, the cutter Vblade 30 and theguide block carrying them, following each cutting operation, so astotrue them up in relation to the parts which do not reciprocate withthem. Such adjustment may be effected as follow-s. At the left side ofthe frame plate 1l is shown a block 111 adjustable In place of the pawland ratchet shown in application 21,544 for locking forward at one pointin each stitch lcycle the welt guide there may beV used herein a wedgemember serving a similar purpose but giving a finer adjustment.

There has thus been described a welt sewing machine embodying theprinciples and attaining the advantages of the present invention. Sincemany matters of combination,

may be variously modified without departing from the principles it isnot intended to limit the invention to such matters except so far as setforth in the appended claims.

1llfhat is claimed is:

1. In a welt sewing machine welt guide means and welt severing meanscomprising a welt loop member shiftable forwardly in the direction offeed during severing, a welt cutting blade movable toward the welt andshiftable forwardly with said loop member, the loop member having a slotand the'cutting blade being `fitted to move in such slot in the loopmember and to givev a shearing action on the welt, operating mechanismfor shifting forwardlyV said loop member and blade while operating thelatter, whereby the welt'will be severed substantially beyond thestitching` point, and means operable 'after stitching to put theoperating mechanism into action.

2. In a welt sewing machine welt guide means and welt everingmeanscomprising a ywelt loop member shiftable forwardly in theV direction offeed during severing,a weltl cutter movable toward the welt` andshiftable forwardly with said loop member, operating mechanism forshifting forwardly said loop member and cutter while operating thelatter, whereby the` welt will beY severed substantially beyond thestitching point, vand means operable after stitching to -put theoperating mechanism into action, the operating mechanism Vcomprising asliding bar (45), resilient means moving the cutter and sliding the bar,a swinging lever for shifting the loop member and cutter, and alink (41)between the bar and lever.

3. In a welt-sewing machine welt guide' means and welt severing meanscomprising awelt loop member shift-able forwardly in the direction offeed whenrsevering, a welt cutter movable toward the welt and shiftableS54 forwardly with .said loop member,'operating mechanismforV shiftingforwardly said loop member and cutter and actuating thelatter to severtie welt substantially beyond the" stitching point, means preventing theoperation of the operating mechanism during stitching but allowingoperationafter the cessation of stitching, andmanual means operable atwill after stitching to put the oper ating mechanism into action. ll. Ina welt sewing machinewelt guide meansand welt severing means comprisinga welt loop member shiftable forwardly in the direction offeed duringsevering, a welt cutter movable toward thelwelt and shiftable forwardlyvwith said loopV member,- operating mechanism `for shifting forwardlysaid loop member and cutter while operating the latter, whereby the weltwill be severed substantially beyond the stitching point, in-`cludingspring means for operatingthe cut- Nif.

ter, a latch*(70)*restraining the spring, a arrangement, operation,structure and detailv springfpressing the latch, a knock lever having a.loose connection with the latch for throwing it, and a spring pressingthe lever.-

.5. Y In a 'welt sewing machine welt severing means comprising a weltloop member shiftl able forwardly during severing, a welt cutter movabletoward the' welt and shiftable forwardly with said loop member,operating l -7 mechanism .for shiftii'ig forwardly said loop memberiandcutter while operatingl the latter, whereby the welt will be severedsub-` stantially beyond thestitching point, a control lever operable toput the operating mechanism intoaction, and means preventing theoperation of said lever during stitching.

6. A welt sewing machine as in claim 5 and wherein the preventing meansoperates by locking the loop member against forward shifting.

7. ln, a welt sewing machine a main welt guide, welt severing means cmprising a welt loop member adjacent to said guide but shiftA ableforwardly during severing, a pin alining [fili said guide and loopmember, a welt cutter movable toward the welt and shiftable forwardlywith said loop member, operating mechanism for shifting forwardly saidloop member and cutter while operating the latter, whereby the welt willbe severed substantially beyond the stitching point, and means forlocking said pin to prevent operation during stitching.

8. ln a. welt sewing machine welt severing means comprising a welt guidemember pressing transversely to the direction of feed during stitchingand shiftable forwardly during severing, a welt cutter movable towardthe welt and shiftable forwardly with said guide member, operatingmechanism for shifting forwardly said guide member and cutter whileoperating the latter, whereby the welt will be severed substantiallybeyond 20 the stitching point, a guard for said guide member preventingcomplete transverse movement during stitching, means releasing the sameafter the stitching, and means pre- `venting the operation of thesevering mecha- 25 nism until after the guard releases the guide member.

9. In a welt sewing machine welt severing means comprising a welt loopmember shiftable forwardly during severing, a welt cutter 30 movabletoward the welt and shiftable forwardly with said loop member, operatingmechanism for shifting forwardly said loop member and cutter whileoperating the latter whereby the welt will be severed substan- 5 tiallybeyond the stitching point, and for returning the same, and meanspreventing reverse movement of the welt after the severing action.

l0. A welt sewing machine as in claim 9 4.) and wherein the preventingmeans comprises a welt holder and means putting it into action at thetime of severing the welt.

ll. A welt sewing machine as in claim 9 and wherein the preventing meanscomprises a welt holder and means putting it into action at the time ofsevering the welt consisting in a lever system for putting pressure onthe welt holder and a control lever or handle for operating the same,and means 'im controlled by the same lever for causing the l operationof the operating mechanism.

In testimony whereof, I have affixed my signature hereto.

JOHN ROGER OLI-VER`

